During the planning stage of any trip, looking up other sailors reviews, the countries entry formalities, port details and navigation details is all part of the pre planning fun.
When we researched Tunisia, and specifically Bizarte port, we could find little positive about the place. The articles talked about being prepared to provide”gifts”(bribes), to immigration and customs officials, and there were bad reviews about the Marina and the local town. After reading these we questioned whether or not we wanted to really go to Tunisia! Fortunately we are of the same mindset we enjoy adventure, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Lets give it a go.
Our discovery was far removed from the negative articles we read. On arrival the in bound process felt very serious, respectful and professional as the Doctor, Police, Chief of Immigration and the Chief of Customs visited the boat within the first few hours and the officials helped us fill in the required forms. They would not even take a drink of water and no hint of strange payments, infact the process was free...!. They did impound our drone and gave us it back when we departed and it was also made clear that the baot had to stay in the Marina and achoring was not permitted.
The Head of Immigration was very astute. We speak no Arabic, and only pigeon French and we were very grateful his English was good. During the form filling he gave John grief for not putting women first on the form. Two hours later when we went to pick up our passports, he asked John to step in his office: “I have a very serious matter to discuss sir”, “you must rename your boat” "You must name it PauJo”. He had worked out that our boat was called Joline (“Jo” from John, and “line” form Pauline), and he insisted that women should come first so PauJo it should be. He reminded us of this all week.
The Marina was developed many years ago, with a great plan to emanate a French riviera marina, unfortunate the investment was not forthcoming and it does have a feel of slight abandonment, but we found it to be very safe, secure and the staff were fabulous. Getting internet was easy as the Marina just gave us a 4G wifi dongle and to top it off fuel was 68 pence per litre!
Venturing out of Marina Bizerte offered a good North African experience, gritty history, sleepy community behind the Old Medina walls, wonderful fish and fruit markets and the hustle and bustle of donkey and carts mixed with scooters, bikes, bashed yellow taxies and well used cars; – where there appeared to be no right of way – just the bravest made best headway.
The heat and sand in the air enhanced by smells of street cooked fish, spices and slight farmyard chicken poo smell mixed with waste water stuck with me. Also the sound of the mosque billowing out the call for prayer five times a day- added to the experience as it could be heard wherever we ventured and became and new normal.
We sat across from the local Medina drinking mint tea watching the young guys who were all out and about, not on their phones, they were messing about jumping in the rivers of the highest structure they could climb, – and so fit looking, no obesity among the youth here, no fast food chains, no processed food and generally no alcohol ( that we found!). On the local beaches the ladies went in fully clothed, no swimming costumes and certainly no bikinis.
Mid week we found a guide – Jammel who kindly drove from Tunis to pick up and spent the next two days driving us to some of the fascinating historic sights of Norther Tunisia.
El Jem – a wonderful roman Ampithertre, the ancient mosque at Kairouan where he brought to life the Romon and Punic history around Carthage. We also fitted in a walk around the very pretty village of Sin Bin Said with its white and blue houses enhanced by fabulous pink flowers.
Before we departed Bizarte we ventured into the markets to stock up on provisions. This was a fun experience – as little English was spoken and we didn’t really get the “00000” on the currency. Buying our 12 eggs for the equivalent of 20pence we were amazed by, – the problem was only 6 made it home as they provide them in a flimsy plastic bag and we did decline the chicken – as it was live! I wanted to get some watermelon but the only option was a large on or very large one, both for less than a UK pound, so I carted it back in the rucksack and have been eating it – morning, noon and night!. John found it to be very good frozen – like a very healthy ice lolly.
The fruit and vedge young men were very honest and helped us with money refusing to take extra ( as to us it seemed remarkably cheap). In return for their genuine help they were delighted that we offered them a go on our electric scoters. They took off on them with a huge grin on their face, went to show their mates and left us standing at the market. Funny, we never doubted they would be back. These are honest and kind people who are pleased to help.
Yes, there are politics and policies in place that are crippling the economy, there are a lot of officials, a lot of military, there are folk that are really struggling with the cost of living there, but our experience of the people was wonderful, they are kind, want to be helpful and welcoming.
The people combined with the history, smells and noises made our experience of North Africa an enjoyable one.
Next stop Malta.
In the meantime - short video to introduce Joline.
Comments