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After a really relaxing passage from Gibraltar to Lanzarote with a couple of Johns friends – Bill and Mark it was time to “On Board” our Atlantic crew.
Introducing Emily and Jackson; a lovely young couple who have financed their college education by planting trees during their summer vacation in the most remote parts of Canada. Having endured sharing a tent and living in a car to facilitate months of backbreaking work in a horribly tough environment, we had no doubt these two could endure an Atlantic crossing. What we discovered was that they were both great characters and a real pleasure to have them on board.
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They are both sea surfers and Emily had sailed with me for a couple of weeks three years ago. Jackson had no sailing experience but these two were quick learners. To test their spirit and resolve before we set out it was time for a “ Pauline Walk”. After several summits, ridges, ravines, and nonexisting paths, they were still smiling, making up riddles to take Johns’s mind off walking and it quickly became obvious these two were going to be a great crew.
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After a sprightly sail to Las Palmas, Jackson endured a steep learning curve as we maneuvered around Las Palmas Marina, - thanks to John’s unique teaching style he will never forget what a “fairlead is” and poor Jackson had to grapple with the concept of actually using the rope for something useful – like tying us up rather than dropping it in the water! Emily on the other hand seemed to have quietly and efficiently sorted it and had already mastered watermaker duties.
In Grande Canary, we spent a very efficient 48 hours provisioning. Turns out Jackson, now well versed in docking procedures, speaks fluent Spanish, a very handy attribute around the local markets when stocking up for five folk, for three weeks. It also turns out Jackson also loves cooking – and we were in for some culinary delights. Emily and Jackson got stuck into the provisioning and were dispatched on Pedro and Carlos, ( electric scooters), for numerous trips to the market, and after a very hard days graft and after a hard days graft we were ready.
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Maggie, a legend of a sailing friend of John and I, landed and within the hour we were off - the tequila was on hold for three weeks .
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The first 12 days were magical downwind ocean sailing. Sailing Joline was a breeze compared with the rolling that Saorsa made us endure. John and I are certainly catamaran converts – or at least Joline worshipers. We didn’t have to even think about putting a water glass down – its so stable, the water jug stays out - stuff just doesn’t move. We settled into our watch routine and the day was taken up with Yoga lessons led by the talented Emily, sun worshiping, fishing, House of the Draggon ( excellent BTW), very competitive Canaster & Kangaroo, great guitar playing from Jackson and of course some great cooking. Yes, a bit of sail trimming, but Joline was sailing herself. Maybe we will not mention the film/ movies choices. – Has anyone seen; Everywhere, Everything, All at once.. John, Maggie and I thought it was dreadful and those Canadians thought it was the best thing they had watched!!.
Day 13 and Emilys yoga classes took on a new dimension, – the seas were starting to whip up and as if “warrior pose” isn’t difficult enough on a moderately rolling deck, – yoga was turning into EXTREME YOGA, and Emily was taking one for the team center stage on the foredeck of Joline. She was also prime target for the flying fish which whipped across behind her.
Normally sailing from the Canaries down towards Cape Verde and across to the Caribbean is ALL downwind sailing in beautiful trade winds.
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For 12 days it was, and we were on track to reach Sint Maarten in 16 days!. John and I had been watching a nasty looking weather system slowly emerging from the northwest. By day 13 it was clear it was heading our way – Tropical storm Jeff. For 2 days we scooted around the bottom of it, “hard on the wind” doing 200nm days!. Then the waves grew, the seas were horrible, the bathroom cabinet left of the wall, the soda stream crashed to the floor, Maggies portholes came undone and soaked her cabin, it rained very hard, everything was wet, we could not contemplate going on deck, yoga was certainly suspended as standing up was challenging and playing cards was not thinkable, enough crashing about…… time to chicken out and head south away from Jeff.
Heading towards Venezuela in the wrong direction and 24 hours later the seas became civilized, slowly we were able to start heading west again. The only issue now was that Jeff had sucked all the wind up!. We were kept on our toes for several days playing with light winds from every direction. Eventually, a northerly wind kicked in and gave us a cracking 24 hours of steaming toward Sint Maaten.
As we were all back out on the deck doing our much-improved yoga with poor Emily taking the lead getting the odd sea water wash, Maggie called “Land Ahoy”. Sint Barts was on the horizon.
18 days and 2 hours after leaving Grand Canary despite tropical storm Jeff we dropped our anchor, hook, dived in the warm water and began our celebrations.
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What an amazing trip! Fantastic team, even better movie choices. Miss the Joline and the crew tons!
Sending love from India!