We had arrived in French Polynesia and Hiva Oa provided a stunning welcome to the Marquesas Islands with a harbor nestled in the center of an eroded volcano. It was a fitting start to our French Polynesian sailing cruise! Everywhere we went: – the scenery and wildlife just kept on delivering beautiful and indescribable experiences. To list them all would take a book…. Here are a few of our favorites…
Ua Pau – This photo was taken from a friend's boat as we were approaching this dramatic and majestic place.
Later anchored in Hakakau with the Islands Panicles as a backdrop, we went ashore and hiked an hour or so up a cart track to meet Manfred – an excentric gentlemen, with many, many stories who makes yummy chocolate in the middle of this remote islands.
A waterfall off the beaten track provided a very welcome break from the heat.
Nuka Hive – Anaho Bay
It was anchored in this stunning bay that we had our first encounter with MantaRay. We got up early to go snorkeling and within minutes John spotted a Manta ray, as we spent longer and longer in the water with him, he got closer and closer within inches. That night we went to bed with wrinkles as we had all spent nearly the whole day in the water fascinated by this graceful creature. Later in the week, we anchored in an uncharted anchorage with a stunning snorkeling place John has now officially named “Hardys Point”, we will never forget our second encounter of a massive manta, sadly this one didn’t hang around for as long.
Sadly Christopher had to fly home back to work from Nuka Hiva, - six glorious weeks we had spent together – wonderful memories and great experiences shared. Just brilliant to spend time with him and have such fun.
Next a 450 mile sail to the Tuamotus. – A walk in the park we thought! Umm... this was the worst prolonged weather we have ever encountered. We had failed to look at the thunderstorm and heavy rain prodecitions:0, the wind had looked great so off we toodled!!. 24 hours of champagne sailing. Then wham bang: 18 hours of 35- 45 kts of wind, rough seas, lightning and changeable squally winds and rain and it just kept coming. It ripped our third reef out, ripped the sailbag to shreds and certainly kept us on our toes for many hours.
The Marquises has dramatic big/huge green mountains. The Tuamoutos is very flat with hundreds of Atolls, ( coral reefs ) where once inside the water is usually very protected from the Pacific rollers. Then there is the Society Islands which is a mix of both – Green Mountains surrounded by a reef that enables you to anchor in beautiful protected waters.
The sheltered Atoll of Raroia, was a paradise to dry out the boat, mend a few things and settle into days of being anchored in beautiful clear waters, swimming, and snorkeling.
Throughout the Tuamoutos the snorkeling was brilliant and it was in these Atolls that Phoebe, who three months ago did not even like swimming in seawater, grew to love swimming, snorkeling and diving! She almost turned into a fish!. Now snorkeling with big fish, small fish, rays, sharks ….. she loves it!
Makemo we loved because we felt like we were the only people on the planet, Fakarava South Pass was a highlight for the shark scuba diving. Rangioa we loved as we found fresh food and a lovely place for coffee overlooking the Atoll pass(Josphines), and a restaurant that prepared a salad which was soooo welcome!- By this stage, we were getting rather creative on the food side. The last good place to buy food was Panama, and thank goodness we had stocked up well!
Next a quick trip to Bora Bora --- this was Phoebe's request(a lifelong dream to visit this place) .
The sail over to Bora Bora was tremendous – three reefs back in the main, small jib and Joline just ate up the miles. Bora Bora has to be seen to be believed, it is beautiful. We also spent hours with Eagle Rays and beautiful fish and coral snorkeling. We were also stunned by how quiet it was, loads of hotel rooms on stilts and it appeared there was no one around!
This week we had a beautiful upwind sail to Tahiti and now after 107 days and 6775 sea miles on board, Phoebe's ( my niece) time on Joline comes to an end, (for now!!!). Phoebe left school last year, and worked hard until January this year, to enable her to spend four months sailing with us from the Caribbean to Tahiti. Having never spent more than ten days away from home, not knowing how to sail, and not liking swimming much either, she embarked on an adventure with her Aunty P!
I could not be more proud of her, I have had a ball with her on board. From storms to overheating…. From non-swimmer to fish, from non-sailor to competent sailor, water and power manager, and also a great on board cook! Most of all throughout our adventure Phoebe's radiant vibrant and charismatic personality has blossomed – a real pleasure to have on board and it has been a delight to see her thrive and enjoy the adventure.
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